The first thing that crosses one’s mind when Italian jewelry art is mentioned is a company founded by Mario Buccellati in 1919.

Although his very first salon in Milan does not exist anymore, Buccellati retail chain sells jewelry all over the world. Items made by the firm are easily recognizable by the textured carving made by Buccellati masters with the use of the same instruments as during the Renaissance. The carving consists in applying a number of cuts of certain style on the frame.

The simplest one goes under the name of “rigato” – a series of straight cuts on the surface which make the stone in such a frame reflect more light. Other often used styles worth mentioning are “telato” (the frame surface resembles the texture of denim) and “ornato” (Italian for ‘ornate’; such surface actually resembles lace). Diamonds and other precious stones used by Buccellati jewelers look gorgeous framed with such textured surfaces.

The most well-known client of Mario Buccellati was Italian poet and hero Gabriele d’Annunsio. Being a wealthy and love abundant person, he was especially fond of making extravagant and expensive gifts to his sweethearts and placed hundreds of orders to the firm. The list includes many diamond decorated bracelets and boxes containing Buccellati trinkets (the gifts were usually accompanied with poetic dedications different for different signors and signorinas).

Mario Buccellati’s business was inherited by his five sons. Janmaria, a talented jeweler and successful jewelry trader certainly worthy of the position, took over the largest branch. Presently he is head of his father’s firm and chief designer at the same time. His eldest son Andre, who will inherit the business, has also gained world fame as a talented designer. It is of interest to note that although Buccellati’s fame is first of all associated with astounding precious stones in intricate frames, many people think of richly decorated tableware when hearing the name of the Company. The two directions are strictly divided by the Company, jewelry and tableware being sold at shops of different interior design. Those who often go overseas need to remember that New York silver salon of Buccellati is located at the 57th avenue and jewelry - at the 5th.

"Dorogoi" magazine,
May 1999 (¹2)