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Brooch made of sapphires and brilliants in the form of dove's wing.

Boivine

The name of this french jeweller, due to some inexplicable reasons is not widely known in the world – despite the fact that the adornments of this brand are not worse or less beautiful than famous jewelry of the world. Rene Boivine opened his first studio in 1890 and three years later when he married sister of Paul Puare, the founder of Couture, the business of just married went up successfully. Probably their success was supported not just by the quality, but the name of Puare. For a short period of time, this firm became one of those that were defining the style of the first decades of the century.

When Rene suddenly died in 1917, a young widow managed to keep the name and their business. Many famous masters came to help Jeane, including Susan Belperon – she was the one, who developed the, glorified later, style of the company and continued to work at Boivines for 10 more years, up to 1933. By that time, Jearmen the daughter of Boivines grew up and she became a designer.

The adornments from Boivine are known for their elasticity, rolling and vibration and some of them even hide some tones in order to appear suddenly later. Brooches with the brand of the firm are often performed in the animal’s figures, they are volumetrical and it makes You want to touch them and turn around in order ot see them from different sides. It’s worth it – for example, the brooch in the form of starfish covered by the stones of caboshon style or the shrimp coiled around the pearl and decorated by pink turmalins and small brilliants.

These quite big adornments nevertheless have the unique feature to lose visually its volume, tenderly laying on the Lady’s shoulder and adjusting with low neck. They are also well-done in the form of decorated objects for the hall decorations. The top of the jewelry art, made in the workshops of Boivine, is considered to be the Chameleon – like his natural prototype it can change the color (if You press the tongue of the miniature animal then the installed roller in the back of the animal and decorated with emeralds and rubies starts to roll).

It takes several months for the production of such amusing trinkets. Those clients who know the sense of the jewelry art, wait patiently – they know that their patience will be awarded and they will become the owners of the really unique things. The firm is quite satisfied with its admirers. Among them were the Dutchess of Windsor, Sasha Gitry, Sesil Biton, Redginald Fellows and other owners of resonant names, decent fortunes and avowed taste. In 1964 Jeaque Bernar, the goldsmith joined the “Boivine” who is still a leading designer and from 1976 he is a pluralistically commercial director of the firm. The firm “Boivine” is still, like a hundred years ago, located in Paris, but the special Salon of the same brand successfully works in London.

"Dorogoi" magazine,
March 1999 (№1)