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Bracelet with brilliants and sapphires.
 

Asprey&Garrard


The year of 1843 is considered the most significant date in the 250-year history of “Garrard” House. This is was the year when young Queen Victoria granted the company a title of Crown Jeweller, the honour still proudly held by the House. Interestingly enough, according to the official protocol the title can be granted to two jewelry firms, but the second position still remains unoccupied and the English Royal House willingly uses the services rendered by the firm with no signs of change.

After the recent merger of two companies, “Asprey” and “Garrard”, the new firm has become an official jewelry supplier for English Royal Court.

The history of Garrard began in 1735 when a goldsmith named George Wickes founded his own business in one of prosperous London districts. The English elite prized his skills as jeweller and maker of beautiful silver frames with many orders. The business was constantly expanded by Wickes until in the 90s three sons of the most successful owner Robert Garrard took over the leadership. It was under their supervision that the achievements of the firm were acknowledged by the rown. From now on making and maintaining of Royal jewelry was a privilege of Garrard House.

For 150 years Garrard has been sending its experts to the Tower of London for two weeks each winter. At this time the entrance is being restricted and the jewellers inspect and restore the articles under the watch of armed guards. The largest restoration of the last century was repair of a crown damaged during the funeral of King George V (Maltese cross on the top of the crown became loose and fell first on the casket and then on the ground).

Fortunately, this is the only sad story in the Garrard’s relationship with the Crown. Usually the jewellers visit the Palace on more pleasant occasions. Their high skills were first appreciated by Queen Victoria when in 1870 Garrard designed for her a lighter crown in which the Queen is portrayed on most paintings and sculptured figures.

The masters of "Garrard" were lucky to process the well-known diamonds of "Kokhinor" and "Kulinan". First of them, weighing 186 carats, was presented to Victoria from the West-Indian comapny in 1850. One year later the diamond was displayed for the public viewing, but the view of an uncut stone puzzled the audience, who considered it to be unworthy. The masters at "Garrard" cut the "Kokhinor" ("The Mountain of Light") and transformed it into the marvellows brilliant, weighing 108,93 carats. The British Royal House always followed the belief that "Kokhinor" can wear only the monarch-woman and after Victoria it was worn also by Alexandra, Maria and Elizabeth. Today it is kept in in the collection of Royal family in London Tower.

"Kulinan" is the largest of all known diamonds, its first weight equaled 3106 carats(!). It was discovered in the "Premier" mine in Transwalle. It was cut into 105 parts, two of which after being cut became the largest brilliants in the world. "Kulinan-1", also known as "The Great Star of Africa", weighs 530 carats; it is pear-shaped, absolutely clear and without any cracks. It usually embelishes the Royal scepter, however, it can be wore as a pendant. "Kulinan-2"("The Small Star of Africa"), weighing 317 carats, in the form of pillow is now under the famous spinel ruby "The Black Prince" embelishes the Emperor's crown.

"Garrard" is related to the family of the modern stones and the members of the Royal family. Diana received its first considerable treasury as a wedding gift from the Queen. It belonged to Elizabeth, the grandmother of Prince Charles and it was made by the masters of "Garrard". The wedding rings for Charles and Diana were made also at "Garrard's".

However, it does not mean that firm rejects the other orders. The famous motto of "Garrard" is "To bring the British flag to any point of the world" and it means that anything from silver crockery to trofeis can be produced here. The Jeweller's of "Garrard" is located in London, Ridgent street. There You can find not just the precious articles of the supreme level, but also decent wristwatches and other funky things made of precious metals.



"Dorogoi" magazine,
May 1999 (¹2)


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