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B a s e l ![]() Basel 2000 Forum
![]() Discussed at the forum were two main topics – branding and the Internet in jewellery industry.
An American jewellery designer Henry Dunay also noted that most customers look for a trading mark. On the other hand, the problem of branding is acute in the USA – while placing an emphasis on commercials of jewellery and watch designers, the majority of trading editions forget jewellery retailers, and if such a jeweller wishes to design his own collection, he will face much difficulty trying to sell it.
The problem of branding is especially urgent in diamond industry. Director of HRD labs (Hoge Raad Voor Diamant) in Antwerp Peter Meeus said that basically all goods, from groceries to clothes have a logo. Only diamonds are being singled out. Meeus said that the lab is introducing fake-proof laser marking of diamonds. Now to customers wish a diamond would be marked by a laser inscription “Certified in Antwerp” and a serial number, viewed by a 10 times magnifying glass. In his report on the lab achievements he cited some remarkable figures. In 1999 the lab certified 79.721 diamonds which by far exceeds the numbers of last year (60.158 diamonds). According to the annual report of HRD, in 1999 diamond import from Antwerp totaled 149 million carats which is by 12% more than in 1998. Money wise, diamond import increased by 31% up $7.1 million. The returns of Antwerp diamond industry totaled 60% of that in the whole world - $23 billion (from $20 billion in 1998). While speaking on GE-POL diamonds, Meeus dropped a hint that at the coming World Diamond Congress (July 16 till July 18) the lab will reveal ways of identification of such diamonds.
Despite the slight fall in stock rates of e-companies at the New York Exchange the Internet forum attracted a great number of participants to the conference hall. Most of the speakers noted that the Internet is a truly useful tool that has become an inseparable part of our life, and without it there is no proper development of any company, including jewellery. Special interest of the listeners was inspired by the report of the executive director of one of the most prominent Internet companies - Ashford.com – Kenny Kurtzman. The company made its debut by selling watches. Presently the site is considered a leader of watch e-trade (it presents about 14.000 kinds of watches by 300 companies). Later the site assortment was enlarged – now it also offers full range of luxury goods (pens, accessories, jewellery, etc.) The year 1999 was marked by a significant sales growth comparing to 1998. In the second quarter of last year the company sales reached $4.4 million which is by 454% higher than the respective figures of 1998. In the third quarter the amount was $20.1 million, which is by 748% higher than last year (3rd quarter - $2.8 million). The dramatic growth was explained by two factors. Since December the company has been operating a transaction on strategic partnership with attracting the funds of Amazon.com. This allowed the site to reach the large Amazon audience (13 million of users). On the other hand, the company is devoted to constant enlarging of assortment. The site offers over 20 different jewellery trends from Wendy Brigode, Judith Jack, Masterson Designs, Robin Rotenier, Gabrielle Sanchez, etc. Introduced last year were separate diamonds, this year - wedding rings with diamonds. Male line formed a separate section.
Curious figures were cited by the chief analyst of Forrester Research Inc. Lisa Allen (the company was founded in 1983 and conducts researches in the field of high technologies and Internet). The analysis indicated great interest in e-trade. In 1999 some 87% of all users made orders at on-line shops. Among them, 25% spent no less than $500 on jewellery. It is noteworthy that 80% of customers prefer Web sites of producers rather than traders. This alone should become a stimulus for creating Internet offices of producing companies.
Interactive trade seems to strengthen its position at the jewellery market. And figures are the best objection to those analysts who speak of low Internet sales.
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